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Bangalore Impressions, Part 2: Yin and Yang

In India, I find the yin and yang of life constantly in my face: the ancient squalor amongst the new, shining, tall apartments; the garish movie posters that celebrate sentimental love and outrageous violence side by side; the intricate twining of the wild and the tamed; the weak infrastructure and the strong economy; the hunger and yearning in the eyes of most and the satiated look of the wealthy few. The difference between being a beggar and driving a Mercedes, between pushing a cart all day when you’re 60 to survive and blowing up Rs.10,000 for your son’s birthday when you’re only 30, between starving for a morsel and having all you can eat for Rs.100, between living amongst filth and ramshackle structures and in mansions that rival the West, between being a monk and a free market enthusiast, between being a rat in the jaws of a hawk and being the hawk, all seems so arbitrary that believing in god seems logical. There but for the grace of you, go I. Fate and destiny seem more powerful than free will and conscious action in India.

In the US, I find it easy to turn a blind eye to the way we live and the way most Indians live. In our suburban neighborhoods, I find it easy to think 4 bedroom single family homes with 2 cars is not an aspiration, some lofty goal, but just the basic human right, to be denied it is unthinkable; easy to lose perspective and vent over some trifle like the cell phone coverage of AT&T; easy to dismiss as aberrations the men I see every now and then holding a sign that says “Broke Nam Vet” or “Hungry Vet, Will Work for Food” with labels such as “alcoholic” or “drug addict”. Instead of thinking how millions of us executing the same life choices that I make leads to such broken men, I think how right Gordon Lightfoot was when he sang “See the soldier with his gun, who must be dead to be admired”. One of the haunting images from Lisbon that I still bear is the sight of a street musician whose dog sat on its haunches holding a small bowl in its mouth labeled “alms”. My first thought was about the plight of the dog, not the man. Am I a misanthrope, I still wonder.

I remember a quote from the classic history of the 20th century, Eric Hobsbawm’s “The Age of Extremes” that sums up my confusion, my agitation when I visit India. Julio Caro Baroja, a Spanish anthropologist says: “There’s a patent contradiction between one’s own life experience – childhood, youth, old age passed quietly and without major adventures – and the facts of the twentieth century … the terrible events which humanity has lived through”.

And when I feel despair, I remember Derrick Jensen’s quote, from an article about the state of the Earth, published in The Orion magazine, back in 2006: “I am a complex enough being that I can hold in my heart the understanding that we are really, really fucked, and at the same time that life is really, really good. I am full of rage, sorrow, joy, love, hate, despair, happiness, satisfaction, dissatisfaction, and a thousand other feelings. We are really fucked. Life is still really good.”

I often wonder, how can I explain to Maya this schism between what her life is like (hopefully our good fortune extends to her) and what she sees around her when she’s in India. And when she asks what have I done to reduce the schism, what will I say ? What will I have done ?

These thoughts resurge powerfully each time I visit India.

Bangalore: Impressions of A Visit, Part 1

Our recent visit to Bangalore had its usual share of groans: the twice-a-day power cuts, water in the taps only every other day, the urban sprawl, the unbridled materialism, the dirt, the crowds, the never-on-time trains and on and on. I don’t want to dwell on those. Instead, let me tell you about pleasant surprises that I encountered on the streets of Bangalore and its environs.

Vaibhava

An outsider visiting any Indian city is sure to be aghast at the garish movie posters plastered on every available public wall and billboard. The posters either celebrate violence – heroes engaged in various acts of violence against demonic looking villains while the heroine, in one corner, looks admiringly at the hero – or they celebrate romantic love – the heroine and hero entangled in each others arms, the heroine often scantily clad (Image from flickr, courtesy of Paul Keller).

Walls that have not suffered poster abuse are stained red with tobacco spits or brown with dust or stained with urine tracks, sometimes covered with poor, unwittingly funny English warnings such as “Do not stick posters. Stickers will be strictly prosecuted” or “Persons committing nuisance will be prosecuted” (image also courtesy of Paul Keller).

What a surprise then to be greeted with walls that looked like these.



A beautification project, called Vaibhava, is underway in Bangalore. Local artists are hired to clean the public walls, remove the eyesore posters and slogans and paint murals. The murals depict the local flora and fauna, people engaged in ancient rhythms such as agriculture and fishing, scenes from popular Indian mythologies, and the famous monuments and temples of Karnataka such as Gol Gumbaz, the temples of Belur and Halebidu, PattadaKallu and Chamundi Hills. Over 700,000 feet of walls have already been painted.

According to this report in The Hindu: ‘Mr. Kumar [one of the painters] said that they used a special weather-proof paint. The painters were all from an agency that employed them to paint banners and film posters. “We are 10 members in all and we get paid Rs. 300 every day. We should ensure that the paintings measure 10 ft x 12 ft,” he said. The initiative began on August 15, and more than 40 roads have been completed.

The effort is not without its share of controversy. According to this report and this report, the project was dreamed by the BBMP Commissioner and executed without consulting the citizens. There is also some hue and cry over how the painters were selected. Some people complain that murals are wrong because their existence on busy streets prevents reflective viewing. Some others complain that expert artists should’ve been hired instead of amateur local artisans. One even complained that the paintings were a distraction to drivers!

Driving around the congested streets of Bangalore is never a pleasure, but at least there is something to rest the tired eyes on.

Improved Commute

Driving around town has been somewhat faster compared to the last time. Going to a friend’s house took over an hour last year, but only 40-45 minutes this time. Going to my favorite bookstores in Bangalore’s main thoroughfare, M.G. Road, took over an hour the last time, but only 30 minutes this time. All those flyovers, constructed over the past few years to ease congestion, appear to be doing their job. In the middle of January, an almost 10 km long flyover opened, running along the road that forms one of the main IT corridors, from Central Silk Board junction to Attibele. It is a toll road, but that should hardly pose a problem to the main occupants of the road, employees of the IT industries such as Infosys and Wipro. A newspaper report that I read quoted many commuters singing paens to this opening as it cut their commute times by as much as half.

One reason for the faster commutes may also be that the public transportation in Bangalore has gotten a lot better. Buses have been the only public transport in Bangalore. Most were overcrowded, run down and rickety, remnants of a poorer time than one reflecting its current status as the Silicon Valley of India. Middle class and higher rarely used them.

This time around, a few of my friends and colleagues at my company’s Indian office say that they prefer commuting in the buses. And they’re not the only ones. A new addition to the bus fleet, popularly called Volvo buses – air conditioned and well cushioned  buses made by Volvo – protect the commuters from the dust, pollution and heat, offering a smooth, quiet ride. These buses were first introduced as transportation to the new international airport, but have since spread substantially because of their popularity. I traveled twice in these buses and was impressed by the quality of the
ride. Many buses are equipped with power outlets for laptops or cellphone chargers. To top that, they’re not too expensive, about Rs.10 or Rs. 20 a ride, making it affordable even for many non-IT professionals (they’re of course, way too expensive for a significant majority of the people).

In keeping up with the times, the buses are starting to be equipped with GPS and can be tracked from a website. The same website also offers traffic updates and live camera feeds from various busy city junctions.

Some interesting tidbits about the public transportation in Bangalore, culled from Wikipedia (can you even compare, Britannica, for providing such information ?):

  • Bangalore Metropolitan Transportation Corporation is one of the few consistently profitable public sector undertakings in Asia.
  • The longest city bus route in India is in Bangalore, traversing 117 kms from end to end.

Namma Metro

Construction doesn’t seem to ever stop in Bangalore. Buildings, roads, flyovers. Some prominent thing or the other, is always coming up. A few years back, the roads were partly choked by the construction of flyovers. While the construction of flyovers seems to have reduced significantly, the construction of the new metro public transit, Namma Metro, has taken over from the flyovers, and in places, with even greater vengeance. The roads around my parents house are choked because a significant middle section of the road has been taken over by the metro construction.

The metro is scheduled to open for service towards the end of 2011. It runs on an elevated track in most of the places, instead of the usual underground system popular with most metros. When I drove to M.G. Road, I took some pictures of the metro as a significant portion has been completed there and will be the first section to open.


When the metro launches, the expected daily ridership is estimated to be 1 million a day! The metro track runs a total of 42.3 kms, with 18.1 kms for the East-West track and 24.2 for the North-South track. Majestic continues to be the transportation hub of Bangalore: it is where the North-South and East-West tracks meet.

The sad consequence of all this improvement, especially the flyovers and the metro, is the large scale felling of trees. Old city squares such as Minsk square, which looked like they belonged to a medium sized, sleepy town in India, now resemble modern urban landscapes of Asia, their lush, verdant cover gone. Bangalore, called the Garden City, was covered with trees, making the streets look like cosy boulevards. The trees protected the city from the heat and kept its temperatures mild and very alluring, a big reason why the city became the IT mecca of the country. With the trees gone, the summers have started to become oppressive. Though promises have been made that the city squares will be restored to their original glory once the work has been completed, I wonder how can such old growth large trees will be replaced any time soon ?

Reading a poem called “The Resignation” by J.D.McClatchy, I remembered the trees that are with us no more:

They seem to lean
On the light, unconcerned with what the world
Makes of their decencies, and will not show
A jealous purchase on their length of days.
To never having been loved as they wanted
Or deserved, to anyone’s sudden infatuation
Gouged into their sides, to all they are forced
To shelter and to hide, they have resigned themselves.

Bangalore is a city on the move. From its origins as a remote outpost of a South Indian kingdom to its current status as India’s third largest city, the city has been radically altered by each successive ruler. Kempegowda was the first to alter the landscape, building a fort and a temple around 1537. He also built a number of water resorvoirs, called tanks. Hyder Ali and his son Tippu Sultan, renowned kings of Mysore, set about the next major alteration, building the largest garden in Bangalore, Lalbagh. Over the course of the 19th century, the British made the next set of major alterations, adding a separate, British-only section to the city, the Cantonment, and the other popular landmark of the city, Cubbon Park. At the beginning of the 20th century, Bangalore became the first city in India to be electrified and staked its claim as the Garden City of India with a series of beautification projects. And now at the beginning of the 21st, the flyovers and upcoming metro have altered the landscape again.

Avatar: Old Body In New Clothes

Taking advantage of an unexpected day off, Shanthala and I watched the IMAX3D version of James Cameron’s “Avatar”. Hailed by critics and audiences alike, it has since sunk the top grossing movie of all time, the director’s own Titanic and become the biggest grosser of all time. While I joined the masses in taking it there, I can’t say that I wholeheartedly agreed with either the audiences or the critics.

Let me start with the good. The effects are spectacular. James Cameron has spent an enormous amount of time in constructing the world of Pandora, the planetary moon in the Alpha Centauri star system, on which the movie unfolds.  As a consequence, the visuals are stunning and so detailed, they probably hold up to repeated viewing. Cameron was apparently an adviser to NASA for the camera design used on the Mars mission and he’s clearly a technical genius. The visuals are not just randomly created for effects. Cameron has tried to ground this world in a decent amount of science. Quite a few commentators think that the science is even pretty good. A 350 page companion book to the movie, structured like an army field manual, covers in hardcore-fan-satisfying detail the geology and astronomy of Pandora, flora and fauna on Pandora and the physiology and culture of the Pandoran sentient beings, the Na’vi. The language of the Na’vi was constructed with the help of a linguist and has a website dedicated to the language, complete with flash cards to help you speak the language. So, what the Na’vi speak is not gibberish dressed up as an alien language.

And I don’t even think I’m qualified to appreciate the difficulties in filming the movie. The Wikipedia provides some jaw-dropping insights into the subject.

And now for my disappointments. Yes, the special effects are spectacular, but I never felt that I was looking at a real, non-computer animated world. Take Jurassic Park, as a point of comparison. At no point in that movie did I ever feel that I was watching computer animated images. And having watched IMAX movies before (those National Geographic or made-for-IMAX documentaries), I did not feel sufficiently immersed by the movie’s unique “immersion” technology. Watching an IMAX movie about the Grand Canyon a few years back, I felt my stomach plummet with the camera as it chased a hang glider over the edge of the canyon. No such thing happened as I watched the Na’vi soar over hanging mountains on top of strange looking birds. Shanthala reminded me that those IMAX movies were shown on gigantic screens. The Wikipedia points to others suffering from a similar problem as mine and that Shanthala is not incorrect. But still, I was disappointed.

What about the way the aliens look ? Yes, they’re 10-12 feet tall, blue, have a tail and their faces are a mixture of humans and cats. But they’re still so humanoid. Is this how imaginative you can get ? The ICICI blog, a blog about cognition and culture, however, defends Cameron’s vision saying, “Indeed, there are good reasons to expect that life on others planets might evolve as it did on Earth. Everywhere in the universe, living beings would face similar evolutionary problems: They need energy, detectors, and computational systems. And everywhere in the universe, they will discover the same solutions exactly as, on Earth, the same tricks (enzymes, sex, eyes, etc.) have been discovered again and again by different species.” Cameron states in an interview that he deliberately made the Na’vi look human to enable people to relate to them more easily. Otherwise, how many could empathize with the hero’s attraction to the Na’vi heroine ?

That said, I found the imagination still limiting. Why pair bonding between the Na’vi ? Do they have to sleep the way we do ? The men ruled the world, concerned with warfare and diktats. Were the Na’vi hunter-gatherers or agricultural settlers ? Nothing in the movie depicts how they acquire food, but a stratification of society of the form shown is closer to an agricultural world than a hunter-gatherer world. With a running time of over 2.5 hours, there was enough time to show all this, but did not, which disappointed me. Like most science fiction, the physics is well imagined, not so much the biology and culture. The only book that I’ve read that depicted alien culture, cognition and biology imaginatively was the Hominid series by Robert Sawyer.

The story is as cliched as cliche can be. A gentle, nature loving, technologically primitive society is under attack by greedy, blood thirsty corporations and their private armies in search of a valuable mineral called unobtanium. The utopian world of the noble savage is alive and well in the movie. The narrative follows a boringly predictable trajectory: the initiation into the ways of the natives, the rite of passage, the chanting and music of the natives, the hero’s change of heart, the final battle between the hero and his nemesis, his one time boss. Nothing surprised me in the story, nothing at all but the effects. Further, while upholding the peace-loving nature of the natives, the narrative sadly resorts to a stereotypical, violent resolution of the conflict.

And the characters ? Female leads in Cameron movies have always been the strong, kick-ass type and the movie has three strong women in prominent roles including the heroine. The hero is naive, brash and unafraid of authority, but with a heart of gold, a “gift”. He goes on to charm the natives, fall in love with the daughter of the head of the natives and save their world. The objective scientist who is full of questions and curiosity but who hasn’t the heart of gold cannot do what he can. Other prosaic characters include a jealous rival among the natives – the heir apparent – who has been promised the hand of the daughter, the queen who is a shaman, the friendly sidekicks, the insiders who help the hero, the violent military commander with no shred of respect for life, the uncaring corporate bureaucrat. The good have no flaws and the bad have no redemptive qualities. There is not one 3D character in this 3D spectacle.

I thought that Cameron indulges in some clever tongue-in-cheek in renarrating the destruction of the ecology of the native Americans, more commonly called Indians. He draws much from the culture of the real India (not Columbus’ misidentified continent), from the title of the movie to the color of the Na’vi to some words in the Na’vi language. For example, the word for bonding or feeling the connection between the Na’vi and the rest of the planet is “sahelu”, a derivation of the Hindi word for friendship, saheli. The Na’vi are blue in homage to the Hindu deities like Krishna and Rama, according to Cameron. I wonder if Cameron came up with the name “Na’vi” as a pun on Marathi where Navi means new (as in Navi Mumbai).

Avatar feels like the Star Wars of this Facebook generation. I think the floodgates are about to burst on commercial 3D movies. A slew of trailers of soon to be released 3D movies preceded the showing of Avatar. I imagine the movie moguls are rubbing their hands in glee at the prospect of the audiences flooding back to the movie halls. People who own fancy, expensive home theater are now upended by a technology that cannot be matched in their homes. No more waiting for DVDs or even Blu-Ray discs. If you want the ultimate in effects, come to the movie hall. And the consumer industry must be salivating at the soon-to-follow arrival of the wave of new TVs, home theatres and sound systems. IMAX, Discovery and Sony have already announced the launch of 24×7 3D TV channel. Avatar video games are on their way as is of course, two more sequels to the movie. Avatar franchised dolls and toys will be on every shelf accessible to kids. The very value – commercial exploitation – that the movie deplores and holds as the chief reason for the destruction of native habitats, is being unleashed as a consequence of its success. That is how success is defined in this globalized culture where economics is king.

I guess the laugh is on me, the nerd in me expecting to see the utopian union of great literature and great art with popular success. I wasn’t old enough to appreciate Star Wars when it came out. I maybe too old to appreciate Avatar.

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Happy Marriage

What makes for a happy marriage ? What makes two people stick together, day after day, month after month, year after mundane year ? Is it love ? Is it compatibility ? Is it fear of being alone ? Is it social pressure ? Is it ennui, the deadening of desire and energy that seems to come with age ? Is it habit ? Is it the pain of modern divorces, with their petty separations – this pickle bottle is mine, my mother pickled it and you never cared for it, this painting is mine, this coffee table book on Maine is mine ? Is it the fear of knowing that the relationship has been no more than the sum of their collected possessions and a shared bed ? Is it children ? Is it a biological need ? Is it the willful looking past hurts rendered, consciously and unconsciously ? Is it money ?

And what are the ingredients of a happy marriage ? Tolstoy wrote that all happy families are alike. So what is common across all happy marriages ? Is it fealty, physical and emotional ? I’m so faithful to you, I haven’t sleep with anyone else, even if we haven’t slept together in eons; I don’t discuss my fears and confusion with anyone else, I don’t even acknowledge them to myself anymore ? Is it the ability to work through conflicts, to sleep with compromises and to not think of them as compromises ? Is it the lack of conflicts ? Is it respect ? Are successful marriages egalitarian ?

Few books I’ve read explore the narrative of a marriage, searching for answers to these questions. Most are about either the romance or the breakup, or about infidelity. Only a few are about the sustenance past puppy romance, about the transition from pop songs about love to jazz songs about relationships, of the transformation of coca cola to fine wine. The first book about a married life that stayed with me was Joan Didion’s “The Year of Magical Thinking”. The book was about the grief of losing her husband of forty years, but in chronicling the silence, she chronicled what lived before. She wrote: “Marriage is not only time: it is also, paradoxically, the denial of time. For forty years I saw myself through John’s eyes. I did not age.”

Two books, one finished a month back and the other still in progress, are two recent reads that explore the inner life of a marriage.

A Happy Marriage by Rafael Yglesias. The title leapt out at me as I passed a neighborhood book store. The reviews it garnered made me pick up a copy from the local library. The first chapter barely interested me. The second walloped me. Never before have I read a book that laid out with such unflinching detail what it is like to be by the side of your spouse dying of cancer. The passages stunned me with their rawness and honesty. How do the people around you react when they know that you’ll die in two weeks ? What do you do ? When do you choose to say goodbye ? Who do you choose to say it to ? When is it too early and when may it be too late ? He writes the details he has to manage, people (the in-laws, the parents, the children, the friends), the choices of medical treatment, who gets to see her and for how long, what does she have the strength for and for how long. Just as Joan Didion’s book first showed me a glimpse of the foreign country that is grief, this book offered me a clearer glimpse of the landscape of the end of days of a spouse. Like Didion’s book, this book is semi-autobiographical, a mostly truthful rendering of the death of his wife, Margaret (only some of the dialogues have been made up, to make up for gaps in memory).

Juxtaposed with these chapters of end of days are chapters of courtship, marriage, parenting, the temptations of love outside marriage and the reasons for sticking on. While the chapters on courtship come off seeming weaker than the ones that describe her end, their courtship is rendered with honesty in unusual scenes, vulnerable scenes, vulnerability brought on by patterns laid out by the author’s culture, complicated by his early success (the author was a successful, published author at 16, a position I envied. He narrates the consequences of such an early success with such candor, I reconsidered my envy). Some of the author’s awkwardness reminded me of my own when I courted Shanthala. I read with a sense of deja vu scenes such as the awkward birthday gifts that he usually got her in the early days.

Yglesias writes: “He longed to penetrate the mystery of how they had managed to live a life together while they were so different in their natures and in their expectations of one another. And if there was no answer to be found in a last talk with his wife, at least he wanted to tell her what she had meant to him, and to hear what he had meant to her, because soon there would be only the loneliness of monologue.” Yglesias’s unstated question is whether their’s was a happy marriage. As I read the book, I wondered about some preconceived notions I had about a happy marriage such as: Is a happy marriage empty of strife, of infidelity ? Do opposites attract only during courtship or can it also cement a marriage ?

The other book, the one that I’m still reading, is Wallace Stegner’s Pulitzer Prize winning “Angle of Repose”. The narrator is an old, wheelchair bound historian, Lyman Ward. Trapped within the confines of a frail, paraplegic body, living alone – stubbornly, despite the misgivings of his son – he tries to piece together the life of his grandmother. Like Mark Knopfler, in narrating the story of a single life, he narrates a larger story, of a country, of a generation. Interposing passages of his grandmother’s life are Lyman Ward’s musings and aspects of his life. His introspective thoughts are filled with a grace and luminescence that make me want to go back and read them again and again.

The book drew me in with its meditative power, observations of nature, musings about the applications of the laws of physics to life, of life at the wild frontier that was the American West. For example, the very first page has this passage about the intersection of time and personality: “Before I can say I am, I was. Heraclitus and I, prophets of flux, know that the flux is composed of parts that imitate and repeat each other. Am or was, I am cumulative, too. I am everything I ever was, whatever you and Leah may think. I am much of what my parents and especially my grandparents were – inherited stature, coloring, brains, bones (that part unfortunate), plus transmitted prejudices, cultures, scruples, likings, moralities, and moral errors I defend as if they were personal and not familial.”. In another passage, Lyman Ward muses about the Doppler Effect of the life of his grandmother: “The sound of anything coming at you – a train, say, or the future – has a higher pitch than the sound of the same thing going away. … I would like to hear your life as you heard it, coming at you, instead of hearing it as I do, a sober sound of expectations reduced, desires blunted, hopes deferred or abandoned, chances lost, defeats accepted, griefs borne”. In a third, he writes about a morning in Grass Valley, California: “May 28, I see by the calendar. The brief and furious spring of these foothills is over, summer is here before I saw it coming. The wildflowers along the fence are dried up, the wild oats are gold, not green, the pine openings no longer show the bloody purple of Judas trees, the orchard and the wisteria are in fruit and pod, not blossom. From now until the November rains, the days will be so unchanging that without the Saturday ballgame I won’t be able to tell week from weekend. Who wants to ? When I was a boy here, summer was narcosis. I am counting on it to be what it always was.”. I wish I could write a tenth as sublimely as Stegner does.

In trying to piece together his grandmother’s life, Lyman Ward realizes what he’s doing is trying to understand the marriage of his grandparents. Lyman Ward explains to his skeptical son: “What interests me in all these papers is not Susan Burling Ward the novelist and illustrator, and not Oliver Ward the engineer, and not the West they spend their lives in. What really interests me is how two such unlike particles clung together, and under what strains, rolling downhill into their future until they reached the angle of repose where I knew them. That’s where the interest is. That is where the meaning will be if I find any”.

Two thirds of the book are a record of that relationship. Of a relationship forged by distance, by the hard frontier life. And in describing that relationship, he also describes the conquest of the West, of life in one horse mining towns, of lynchings by vigilantes, the conflict of interest between government surveyors and the miners wishing access to that information before it became public, and the people who lived in these times. But the kernel rests on the unlikely relationship. The remaining third of the book cover aspects of Lyman Ward’s life, how this quest affects his life and his graceful musings.

Like Yglesias’ book, Stegner’s book is part fiction and part true story. The characterization of the grandmother and grandfather are also drawn from Stegner’s mother and father. Stegner also modeled the grandmother on Mary Hallock Foote, whose letters provided a basis for the novel (and stirred up some cries of plagiarism). The novel is peppered with cameos by real life Western explorers and engineers such as Clarence King, Henry Janin and Samuel Emmons.

The story of people striking West in search of opportunity, fame and fortune is not unlike an immigrant story. Of the many Indians I have seen in this country, the price of the journey has always been paid more dearly by the women, just as women and children have always paid the price of men’s ambitions through history. A passage that addresses the plight of such women is an example of the universality of Stegner’s writing: “When frontier historians theorize about the uprooted, the lawless, the purseless, and the socially cut-off who settled the West, they are not talking about people like my grandmother. So much that was cherished and loved, women like her had to give up; and the more they gave it up, the more they carried it helplessly with them”.

Shanthala grew up in a single place since she can remember, mostly in the same house. I grew up everywhere, uprooted every 3-4 years. Shanthala, like Scarlett of Gone with the Wind, is rejuvenated by a visit home, her parents’ home. I envy her. I wish sometimes a place could rejuvenate me so, a place I could call home the way she does. Stegner addresses this feeling from a different perspective, but in a way that touches the essence of my envy when he writes: “I wonder if ever again Americans can have the experience of returning to a home place so intimately known, profoundly felt, deeply loved, and absolutely submitted to ? It is not quite true that you can’t go home again. I have done it, coming back here. But it gets less likely. We have had too many divorces, we have consumed too much transportation, we have lived too shallowly in too many places”. Reading this, I realized that I was an immigrant before I came to the US, have been an immigrant all my life, living too shallowly in too many places, uprooted just as I was beginning to set roots.

Great literature can speak to people of completely disparate backgrounds, to the common humanity that binds us all. Stegner’s book is great literature.

I highly recommend both books.

You can read excerpts of both “A Happy Marriage” and “Angle of Repose” online. I also recommend Terry Gross’ interview of Rafael Yglesias (transcript available too).

Time Passages: The Music Of Al Stewart

“Two broken tigers on fire in the night
Flicker their souls to the wind”

Two of the most beautiful lines that I’ve heard in all of my musical journeys. Can you believe a song, a rock song at that, that grabs you like a thriller from the first lines and doesn’t let go till the end, almost eight minutes later. And the song has a beautiful, sad ending like a great epic. And the song is the chronicle of the Third Reich’s disastrous invasion of Russia, the beginning of its end, told from the perspective of a Russian foot soldier.

Or how about this song, “The Running Man”, that chronicles the life of a hunted man (a Nazi ?), running from the hunted, that starts with:

Before the phone hits the receiver
You’re halfway to the door
The voice said ‘get out while you can,
There’s just ten minutes, nothing more’

Or a song about the French Revolution called “Palace of Versailles” that starts with:

The wands of smoke are rising
From the walls of the Bastille
And through the streets of Paris
Runs a sense of the unreal
The kings have all departed
There servants are nowhere
We burned out all their mansions
In the name of Robespierre

Probably no other rock artist has set history to such beautiful music and woven such compelling historical tales as Al Stewart.

I was introduced to his music in Paris. When I went to meet a friend in one of the company apartments, I heard this beautiful music coming from one of the rooms. I asked what the music was and who lived in that room. I was told that the guy who lived there was a snob who had the most expensive and gorgeous sounding music system in all the company. Snob or not, I wanted to know what the music was. I knocked on the door and entered his den. A guy sat on the floor, sprouting a moustache and an attitude. I introduced myself and asked him what was playing. He said, “Al Stewart”, disdainfully. The song that I heard was “Roads to Moscow”, the song whose lines I quoted at the start of this post. The album was “The Best of Al Stewart“.

I remained in the room listening to the rest of the music and a few months later, the snob and I were good friends. We’d spend hours listening to music. I was coming to Paris from my years spent in small towns of Southern India where western music was hard to come by. And what did come by was the mainstream stuff, stuff that I had grown tired of, stuff that was unmemorable a week or a month later. I was in search of something less ephemeral, more soul grabbing. Deepak introduced me to a lot of new music, music that went under the genre of progressive rock, of groups such as Yes, ELP, Rush and King Crimson. Of all of them, the only two that remained are Al Stewart and Camel.

Al Stewart has a pleasing and distinctive voice to accompany his distinctive musical stories. Hear it once and you can recognize it again quite easily, just like Mark Knopfler’s guitaring. His musical journey began with a guitar and this voice, singing folk rock songs of intimate portraits gleaned from his life. Stories of girl friends – won, lost and love still searching – of friends and their lives, of street life and characters like history teachers. Here are some lines from one of his early songs, In Brooklyn:

‘Oh I come from Pittsburgh to study astrology,’
She said as she stepped on my instep,
‘I could show you New York with a walk between Fourth Street and Nine.’
Then out of her coat taking seven harmonicas
She sat down to play on a doorstep sayin
‘Come back to my place I will show you the stars and the signs’
So I followed her into the black lands
Where the window frames peel and flake
And the old Jewish face behind the lace
Even now trying to get to see what’s cooking
Just John the Baptist in the park getting laid thinking there’s no-one looking
And its eighty degrees and I’m down on my knees in Brooklyn

Interestingly, his first single, in 1967, included guitaring by the legendary Led Zeppelin guitarist, Jimmy Page. His albums also featured good instrumentals such as “A Small Fruit Song” from his third album, Zero She Flies. At one of his concerts, he joked that jazz is what happens when a musician continues to play even after they don’t know what they’re playing, this despite his third album containing an 18 minute track that chronicled his love life. The song reads like a rock version of Raj Kapoor’s “Jaane Kahan Gaye Woh Din”. Wikipedia credits the song as being the first mainstream record release to include the “f” word. I like how the song ends:

Of all the girls I ever knew
some loved and some denied me
And all the words I ever said
have been no use to hide me
And all the songs I ever sung
each one of them untied me
And all the girls I ever loved
have left themselves inside me

Wikipedia has this to say about this stage of his career: “Stewart was a key figure in a fertile era in British music and he appears throughout the musical folklore of the age. He played at the first ever Glastonbury Festival in 1970, knew Yoko Ono pre-Lennon, shared a London apartment with a young Paul Simon, and hosted at the legendary Les Cousins folk club in London in the 1960s.”

Things began to change with his fifth album, “Past, Present and Future“, released in 1973. Six of the eight songs from that album had historical roots from melodies about the second World War to a portrait of the American president, Warren Harding, to one about the prophecies of Nostradamus. This was the first album to be properly released in the US, though it didn’t receive much airplay on commercial radio stations due to the length of its best songs.

Two albums later came the meteoric “Year Of The Cat”. Al Stewart is mostly known to everybody for this album. He says that this was attempt to construct a chart-busting album. “If this didn’t work, I don’t know how to create one”, he said. It had fewer historical songs than say “Past, Present and Future”, but the three that it did were gems: Lord Grenville, On The Border and Flying Sorcery. The title track is among my all time favorites, along with Roads to Moscow. His description of the woman in the title track is brilliant and unique:

She comes out of the sun in a silk dress running
Like a water colour in the rain

as is the the starting of the song:

On a morning from a Bogart movie
In a country where they turn back time
You go strolling through the crowd like Peter Lorre
Contemplating a crime

It is a song that speaks to the senses with lines of incense and patchouli, blue tiled walls, drum beats and rhythms.

The rest of his albums never quite achieved the popularity of Year of the Cat though they possessed gems such as Merlin’s Time, Running Man, Song On The Radio and Palace of Versailles. He mostly disappeared from the mainstream radio scene. But that hasn’t stopped him from continuing to put out albums. His last album “Sparks of Ancient Light” was released in 2008. The highlight of the album was the song “Shah of Shahs” about the last days of Reza Shah Pahlavi of Iran. He sings:

After these processions comes the sweeping up
The rag and bone possessions, an old tin cup
The army trucks have hauled away the newly slain
The angry crowd retreats, but they’ll be back again

And the prisoner in the palace does not understand
The ingratitude around him after all he’s done and planned
But if this the way that it must be then he’ll be damned
If he will let them take away his perfect dream

….

He cried inside the limousine and at the airport too
Where the soldier knelt before him and kissed his shoe
He flew across the desert and the open sea
While they tore down all his statues and his legacy

And the victor greets the newsmen with a strange and stoic style
They take a hundred thousand pictures and in none of them a smile
But this is just the way that it must be now for a while
he’s only come to bring another perfect dream

Luckily for me, he still tours, performing at small, off beat but popular stages. He is back to being a folk artist again, singing his popular and not-so-popular tunes with a just a guitar. He’d sometimes be accompanied by his then collaborator, guitarist Laurence Juber. Almost twenty years after I first heard his song, I saw him perform live. He came to the Bay Area twice within a year and we saw him both times, driving nearly two hours each way the second time. His concert was charming despite the lack of orchestration because he also spoke well, with understated, wry British humor.

In the music shops of Paris at that time I lived there, only a handful of his albums were available, all very expensive. So Deepak and I purchased an album each, Year of The Cat, and its followup, Time Passages. I had to wait till I came to the US to buy some of his other albums. After collecting seven of his albums, I thought I had enough. For a while, he vanished from my music scene as jazz and Mark Knopfler supplanted just about everything else.

Then Maya was born. A child can begin a journey of rediscovery. One afternoon, looking for some music with an afternoon mood, I played Lord Grenville and Year of the Cat to Maya. She was hooked to both songs and for over two months now, they continue to be the songs she takes to her afternoon nap. I’ve introduced other songs such as Time Passages, Almost Lucy and Palace of Versailles, all of which she likes. Roads to Moscow is one of her favorite bedtime tracks. Last night, she evan began humming the chorus of the track. As I listened to Roads to Moscow, to her humming and watched the joy in her face as she listened to the song, my thoughts harked back to my history with Al Stewart and I drifted into those Time Passages.

It was late in December, the sky turned to snow
All round the day was going down slow
Night like a river beginning to flow
I felt the beat of my mind go
Drifting into time passages
Years go falling in the fading light
Time passages
Buy me a ticket on the last train home tonight

Well I’m not the kind to live in the past
The years run too short and the days too fast
The things you lean on are the things that don’t last
Well it’s just now and then my line gets cast into these
Time passages
There’s something back here that you left behind
Oh time passages
Buy me a ticket on the last train home tonight

Al Stewart picture from flickr, courtesy of ac4lt.