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Around San Francisco With Maya: Civic Center

When I lived near Paris, I didn’t go to see the famous places until the very end. I vividly remember the hectic schedule that I put together to see the Louvre, Les Invalides, Musee D’Orsay, Jardin Luxembourg. You name it and I probably saw it in those last few weeks. With the exception of Eiffel Tower and Notre Dame. We both knew at some level that things would never be the same between us again and this girl and I were going through this frenzy of doing things together for the last time.

Here I am, twenty years later, near another beautiful city and I haven’t really seen it except for the Golden Gate, Crooked Street and Golden Gate Park. That is a little exaggeration, because I have seen a few other places, but nevertheless, the city has largely been a stranger to me. In the past few months that we’ve been coming up to the city with Maya, we’ve finally started to get to know San Francisco better.

The day began with Maya wanting to have croissant and milk, her favorite breakfast when we come up to the city. She then wanted to go play at Dolores Park. Summer is almost here and that means San Francisco is beginning its second winter. The wind was shaking the trees like some storm was heading our way and it was cold. Shanthala elected to stay indoors a little longer and so, Maya and I took the public transit and headed to the park. Once we got there, we found that the play structure was sealed off, torn down for renovation. We stood there wondering what to do when we saw an old tram approaching. Papa, lets just get on the tram and go, she said. So, thats what we did.

We got off at some random stop when Maya thought it fit to get off. We wandered the streets a bit and Maya said that she wanted to ride a tram into the tunnel and then take the stairs to surface from the tunnel. Instead of doing our usual run up to Embarcadero, I decided to jump off the tram at the Civic Center. Maya had seen the City Hall from the car a couple of times and so she was eager to see it up close.

We followed a sign titled United Nations Plaza to the surface from the underground. What a beautiful sight greeted us!

The sight seemed straight out of some European city. Maya squealed her delight and started running up and down the wide, pedestrian mall. And her delight turned to squeals when she spotted the fountain behind us.

Signs of how little I know of the world I’m immersed in becomes apparent once again. The entire place is covered with aspects about the UN. Quotes from different people about the need for UN, date the UN charter was signed, a pillar for each year since the UN wS founded with a list of nations that joined that year and so on. I thought that all this was in keeping with the name of the plaza.

Almost seventy years ago, between April 13 and June 26 of 1945, 50 allied nations met in San Francisco with the aim of setting up a global organization that would help resolve conflict through peaceful means. The US along with 50 other allied nations and various non-governmental agencies crafted the UN Charter, here in San Francisco, creating the UN. So, the plaza we were on was not just another dedication to the UN. It was where the UN was founded!

The plaza was mostly empty except for a homeless man sitting by the fountain. Gulls and pigeons were the only other animals that seemed to have more than a second’s interest in the place besides us. Maya ran round and round the fountain, chasing the birds or just watching the water. The fountain is not particularly pretty or memorable.

Back in 2003, the fountain was almost demolished. From a newspaper article published in 2003:
It’s become an intolerable situation, and we don’t have additional resources to continually clean it,” said Alex Mamak, a spokesman for the Department of Public Works.

 

Department crews clean out human filth and hypodermic needles every morning, only to find a new mess the next morning, Mamak said.

Something happened after that time because the fountain is still here and looked quite clean. The only droppings I saw were the birds’.

After exhausting the novelty of the fountain, Maya headed towards the Civic Center, passing a large statue of Simon Bolivar on horseback and a monument called the Pioneer Monument.

Along the way, pillars framed the mall upto Bolivar’s statue with each pillar dedicated to a year when one or more nations joined the UN. One of my memories from history lessons from school is that only 4 nations were not part of the UN, one of which was Switzerland, a nation long famed for its neutrality. So, what do I see on the pillar dedicated to the year 2002 ? Switzerland.

As we approached the City Hall, Maya spotted a children’s playground and took off running. I stayed behind, trying to get different shots of the City Hall.

After lunch, Maya, Shanthala and I headed to Embarcadero where Maya spent a considerable time playing at another fountain, the strange looking structure called Quebec Libre. Constructed by a Quebecois sculptor called Armand Vaillancourt, it is a structure that Shanthala immediately considered ugly, grotesque and an eye sore. It seems to be an opinion shared by others. One critic called it, “Stonehenge unhinged with plumbing troubles” and another described it as “the funeral of beauty in art”. One blog recently bemoaned the logic behind spending $1000 a day to pump water through the fountain.

But, Maya was oblivious to all of this. There was water and she could get wet. That’s all that mattered as she ran along the pathway that took her into the heart of the fountain, with water spilling all around her.

The afternoon turned out to be quite beautiful and warm. Thanks to Maya, we were enjoying a mild summer day in the city that is considered by many to be the city to visit in the US.


 

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After the Storms

We were socked with two big storms over the past two weeks. On the tail end of the first storm, we celebrated Maya’s birthday for the first time in the US. We hosted the largest party we’ve ever held at our house. Some 20 odd people including kids showed up. Overall, the party was a success I’d like to think.

The next day we went for a hike. The air was crisp and fresh after the almost four days of continuous rain. Maya had been demanding that we take her to climb a hill and so we eventually did. Gray rain clouds still clung to the sky, but co-mingled with snow white clouds and great patches of blue sky. The whole thing was quite atmospheric (pun intended).

After I got the iPhone, I hardly take the regular camera any more. The iPhone does a pretty good job most of the time. It is only in really low light conditions that I have difficulty getting a good picture (the picture is too grainy). I purchased a couple of apps a few months back and that coupled with a free app enhance the photographs taken with an iPhone quite well.

The first one is called Pro HDR. It simplifies the technique of taking HDR pictures. HDR (high dynamic range) is a technique whereby you combine two photos taken with different exposures to obtain a single photo that uniformly lights all the subjects. For example, if you’re shooting against the sun, the foreground is quite dark while the background is quite well lit. If you place the focus on making the foreground bright in such a condition, the background is too bright, a complete washout. But our eye can see both the background and the foreground quite well. To affect the same illusion, a HDR image is one that is created by combining two such images, one with the foreground dark and the background correctly lit and another with the foreground properly lit and the background a complete washout, to produce a single image that has a high dynamic range of illumination.

Pro HDR is one of the several HDR programs available for the iPhone. I picked it up on sale and because it was one of the higher rated HDR apps. With it I’ve captured several gorgeous pictures. Here is one taken on the hike with Maya up Rancho San Antonio County Park. Compare it with a similar photo taken without the HDR program.

Here is another good looking picture taken with the HDR program.

Notice the ghost at the far left, caused by an object that moved between the two differently exposed pictures.

Another program that I purchased is called 360 Panorama. This allows you to shoot panoramic pictures quite easily with an iPhone. When I had gone to my sister’s graduation, I was impressed by a camera that my cousin had, the Sony Nex 5. He just pressed the shutter and fired away as he swung the camera in an arc across the auditorium. The camera automatically composed a panorama out of these pictures. Compare that to the panorama mode in most cameras that I had seen till then with the panorama stitch assist mode. A few days later I ran into the 360 Panorama app which does pretty much what the Nex did, except that it ran on my iPhone and cost $1.99 (yes, less than $2).

Here is a panoramic picture taken with this program.

As you can see, the picture is not that great because of the poor light conditions. I’ve come to realize that the more professional cameras are more forgiving of adverse light conditions and poor photographers while the cheaper ones or like the one with the iPhone produce great pictures under a limited range of lighting conditions.

Hardly had the first storm abated than the second storm hit. This one came with far greater expectations than the first. A cold front from Alaska was bringing brrrr! temperatures. Snow was expected, snow so rarely seen in this part of the world. The excitement built up so much that a website called  IsItSnowingInSFYet.com sprang up. The local paper carried the headlines:
“‘Coldest storm of season’ hits Bay Area; snowball fights in San Jose
still possible”.

Sure enough, the temperatures dropped to record busting lows. Oakland and San Francisco Airport had their lowest temperatures recorded for the month (34 and 35 degrees Farenheit, I know nothing Arctic, but hey, this is Silicon Valley). Nearby Mountain View and San Francisco had temperatures that tied with the existing record. But no snow came. The local paper this time said: “The much-ballyhooed Great Blizzard of 2011 was more like the Great Fizzle.”

But catching a break in the rain on a slow work day, I went for a trot on Friday morning. It was quite cold, but after a mile or so, I had warmed up enough to not notice it. I wanted to see Stevens Creek in spate.

The creek was a roar compared to its usual silent flow. In places where the path descended to the level of the creek, the creek looked like it’d overflow. The creek was a rich, chocolate milkshake brown, frothing white as it tumbled over rocks and sudden changes in gradient.

The second picture above is another image shot with the HDR app.

As I ran down the trail, my mind raced over some news that I had been browsing in the past few days. The East Coast of the US had been hit with one of the worst storms in its recorded history, Australia had suffered devastating floods. I remembered that my friend at the non-profit that I work with had titled an essay on how weather is affected by global warming as: “How the 100 Year Flood Became An Annual Event”. If that sounds too dramatic, NYT blogged back in 2007 that:
Floods that happen every 100 years could come as often as every 10 years by the end of this century, Long Island lobsters will disappear and New York apples will be just a memory if nothing is done to reduce greenhouse gas emissions, according to a new report by the Union of Concerned Scientists.

2010 tied with 2005 as the warmest year in recorded history (since record keeping began in 1887). The weather all of last year was quite irregular. So what, you say ? Here is a chart put out by the BBC on world food prices:

According to the article, titled “Q&A: Why food prices and fuel costs are going up“:
… in 2010, severe weather in some of the world’s biggest food exporting countries damaged supplies.

That has helped to push food prices almost 20% higher than a year earlier, according to the FAO. (The 2010 figure was slightly below the annual measure  for 2008 as a whole.)

Flooding hit the planting season in Canada, and destroyed crops of wheat and sugar cane in Australia.

In addition, drought and fires devastated harvests of wheat and other grains in Russia and the surrounding region during the summer, prompting Russia to ban exports.

As a result, wheat production is expected to be lower this year than in the last two years, according to US government estimates.

Meanwhile, in the US, we voted Tea Party led Republicans to power and what have they started ? Attacking EPA and climate change regulations that they claim hurts business. Yahoo had an article titled “Congress Begins Assault on EPA’s Climate Change Regulations“. In Montana, there’s talk of passing a bill that would declare that global warming is good for business! Discover, the popular US-based science magazine, said that the number 4 science story of 2010 was: “Climate Science Wins a Round, But the Campaign Goes Poorly“. This was after the so-called climategate scandal, in which some conservative hackers hacked into University of East Anglia and retrieved more than 1000 emails that they said showed how scientists were distorting the evidence and that there was no scientific consensus on global warming. There was no evidence of distorting evidence, of course, but that didn’t help the cause, especially in the US. Pew Research found that the percentage of Americans who believe that human activity is causing global warming fell sharply to 34% in 2010 from 50% in 2006. Only 13% of conservatives believe human activity as the cause for global warming.

As I ran, I wondered how we would come together on such a divisive issue. The US especially is so deeply anti-science and anti-global warming that I find it alarming. Even friends who seem to accept the problem, do little to change their lives to act in a way that reduces their carbon footprint. Of course, I’m no saint when it comes to reacting to global warming either. I may do a little, but there is not as much integrity or depth to my responses.

Last year, Time magazine carried an article titled: “Climate-Change Strategy: Be Afraid — but Only a Little”. The article said that research by two Berkeley psychologists showed that: “when people are shown scientific evidence or news stories on climate change that emphasize the most negative aspects of warming — extinguished species, melting ice caps, serial natural disasters — they are actually more likely to dismiss or deny what they’re seeing. Far from scaring people into taking action on climate change, such messages seem to scare them straight into denial. … The results, Willer and Feinberg wrote, “demonstrate how dire messages warning of the severity of global warming and its presumed dangers can backfire … by contradicting individuals’ deeply held beliefs that the world is fundamentally just.” (WEIRD warning alert, of course).

I think like recycling and driving less, some minimal actions that can help the cause is how we shop for food. Buy local produce. Avoid purchasing goods that have been produced and shipped from across the country or worse, from across the world. If you have farmers’ markets, shop there, especially if you can afford it. Run the heater a little less in the house. Do these really help or are they only feel good actions ? I think that once we decide to factor carbon footprint and sustainability into our decisions, even just a little, there is a potential to affect a larger change. I also hear Gandhi’s quotes, “Be the change you want to see in the world” and “My life is my message”.

I finished my run in good time and my legs felt good. I was glad for the lull in the work schedule and the rain that I could go for a run. My mind harked back to the Derrick Jensen quote that I have written about: “We are really fucked. Life is still really good.”

Ripples from The Swine Flu

La Gloria village, Veracruz, Mexico

La Gloria village, Veracruz, Mexico, Image Courtesy of The Guardian

Mid-March, 2009. La Gloria, a town of about 2243 people, in the state of Veracruz, Mexico. Not much of town, though it looks pretty, perched amongst hills. About half of this small population works in Mexico City, about 200 kms away, during the week. About 60% of the town is sickened by a respiratory illness whose cause was unknown. Later, this illness is called the swine flu, caused by a virus, H1N1. Three children die, the cause unknown, because the swine flu has not been identified yet. Only one is later tested for swine flu, the other two buried before the disease is named.

End March, 2009. A nine year old girl living in a California county bordering Mexico is taken ill and is later confirmed to have suffered from the swine flu. Another 10 year old boy in nearby San Diego county also falls victim to the swine flu.

Mid April, 2009. The CDC receives mucus samples from the girl and the boy and identify the virus as a new strain of the swine influenza, A(H1N1).

H1N1 Virus, Image courtesy of Harvard University

H1N1 Virus, Image courtesy of Harvard University

April 21, 2009. The CDC alerts physicians of a new strain of an Influenza A virus, called A(H1N1). This news is the first report of the disease in an English media. The swine flu is also the cause of the deadly 1918 influenza pandemic in which 50 million people were killed and 500 million infected.

End April, 2009. An entire school district just outside San Antonio, Texas, is closed to prevent spreading of the influenza. About 53,000 students are out of school in Texas and more school closures are planned. Some schools in Chicago and New York close to prevent spreading of the disease. A 23-month old Mexican child in Texas dies, the first casualty outside Mexico.

May 1, 2009. Mexico shuts down for five days to battle the epidemic. Fear runs wild through the streets.

May 16, 2009. India confirms its first case of swine flu, in the southern city of Hyderabad.

August 4, 2009. A 14 year old girl in the western city of Pune dies of swine flu, the first reported death due to the disease. Her death is all the more shocking because it is caused by a delay in identifying her illness as the swine flu. The delay also means that a drug, Tamiflu, that could have saved her life, is not given. There is outrage over the incident. Ineffectual enquiries are launched as is the norm. Worldwide, about 800 people have died of the disease so far.

August 13, 2009. Mumbai, India’s commercial capital, begins a week long shutdown of all schools and colleges and a three day shutdown of movie halls to prevent the spreading of the epidemic. 19 people have died in India alone and 1,126 worldwide.

September, 2009. A second wave of the epidemic hits the US, prompting school closures in eight states.

October 23, 2009. US president Obama declares a national emergency over the swine flu.

Eight months after it first surfaced, the ripple effect triggered by the pandemic touches our house. Swine flu vaccines are in short supply and the demand is aplenty. Santa Clara county has received only 55,000 of the expected 211,000 so far. Pediatrician offices have not received any supply of the vaccine, and expect supplies to be delayed even further.

When the vaccine was first announced, Shanthala and I were skeptical of giving it to Maya. We were worried about the possible side effects of a new drug, hardly tested. In 1976, the US government provided mass immunization against a similar swine flu pandemic. 500 people came down with a neurological disorder called Guillain-Barré syndrome and 25 people died. The Daily Mail paper in the UK carried a story that said that a leaked letter by the Govt to senior neurologists linked the new vaccine to the possibility of acquiring GBS. The vaccine was withdrawn within ten weeks of its premiere and the US government paid out millions to settle with those who were affected by the vaccine. But despite intense scrutiny for possible side effects, the current swine flu shot seems to have no serious side-effects, at least not GBS. It’s well past ten weeks by now.

Shanthala is administered the vaccine in her hospital as she is a health care worker. We’re traveling to India shortly and she’d like Maya to get a shot as well. Shanthala rarely stresses on the need for medication and so when she does so this time, I take it seriously. Shanthala and I find out that the Santa Clara county is holding a vaccine clinic on Saturday in multiple places, including the Santa Clara county fairgrounds. We decide to try our luck at a local county clinic that is also participating in the vaccine program.

Saturday, 8:15am. I had read reports of vaccine clinics in New York city running quite empty as few people showed up to get the shot. So, even though Shanthala wanted to go early and wait in line, I dallied and we eventually ended up going around 8:15 or so. I expected some rush, but not the pandemonium that we encountered. The line had circled the building almost twice already. I drop Shanthala off and headed back home. Shanthala reports later that the line had started at 4 am that morning. By 6 am, the parking lot was full. The clinic was not slated to open till 9:30. At the main swine flu clinic at Santa Clara county fairgrounds, people started lining up at 3 am in the morning, according to reports.

9:45 am. Shanthala calls to say that there was chaos and that she and several others had approached the few police officers to fetch reinforcements. People were drifting in and trying to get to the head of the queue, to either sneak by or to ask questions and were pushed and wrestled by the people already waiting in line. She asks me to park the car some distance away and use a stroller to get Maya to the clinic.

10:15 am. Shanthala calls to report that about 70-80 pregnant women were first let in to be administered the vaccine and that the rest were waiting. She says that there was some talk of giving tickets to people in line with kids.

10:30 am. Shanthala asks me to head over right away with Maya because there was talk that the tickets would not be issued to people without kids, even though the shot was for a kid.

10:50 am. I park about half a mile away and walk to the clinic. Maya has had a little meal and is not very fussy, though she protested being put in the stroller. She wanted to push the stroller. As we approach the clinic, passersby tell me that the vaccine is over. When we arrive, Shanthala says that she got a ticket already. She is number 807. How long do we have to wait, I wonder. An hour ? I see an official looking announcer with a bullhorn and approach him for details. He says that only about a 100 people have gotten the shot so far. Someone else asks how long it would be till his turn came up. He has a number in the 500 range. At least four hours, says the official. Four hours ! Are those with a ticket at least guaranteed a shot, I ask. Yes, he says. There are a 1000 vaccines.

I drift back to Shanthala to report the news. She’s gotten acquainted with the other folks in the line. There is a Chinese couple with a three and half year old son and an Indian couple with a four year old daughter. We decide to take turns to go get lunch and relax a bit. The Indian couple take off first, we next. There is a nearby Indian restaurant we’ve not been to. I see a few colleagues from work also waiting in line.

1:00 pm. Lunch is long over as is Maya’s patience. We’ve walked her several times, had her push the stroller a few times. It is her nap time now and she’s getting tired. I had shrugged Shanthala’s suggestion earlier that I take her to the park. People in line are eating take-away meals, mostly burgers and fries. A kid ahead of us plays a mouth organ (harmonica) and Maya watches him in fascination. The official announcer comes around announcing that they’ve vaccinated up to ticket number 450 now. It is a little nippy in the shade, but comfortable in the sun. A mom sits down on the sidewalk and reads a story to her son. A few other kids settle down next to her and it is story time all of a sudden.

1:30 pm. Maya is getting more restless and Shanthala asks me to take her home for a nap. I argue that I can put her down right there, but Shanthala thinks Maya won’t nap with all the noise. Maya really loses it now and I hurry away to the car with her strapped in the stroller. She’s miserable and wails as loudly as she can all the way to the car and all the way home. Her wailing sets me on the edge after a while and I yell at her to be quiet. She falls asleep just as we reach home. She’s exhausted from the crying. It is almost 2 pm. I put her down on the bed and lie down next to her.

2:35 pm. Shanthala calls to say that she’s nearing the head of the line and asks me to head over right away. I pull everything together first before waking Maya. I expect her to start wailing again, but she is quiet. I park in the parking lot of the apartment complex right opposite the clinic. Maya doesn’t want to get in the stroller. I hold her and pushing the stroller race across the street, jaywalking right in front of the cop patrolling the entrance. We reach the clinic closer to 3.

3:25 pm. Maya is given the vaccine, a shot to the thigh. She wails for an instant before quieting. We arrive home by 4, exhausted.

NYT is running an article today speaking of this rift in behavior between parents who’re lining up to receive the vaccine and those who remain skeptical and refuse it. A friend I spoke to expressed similar skepticism and said that most people recovered quickly even if infected and so she didn’t want her three year old daughter to get it. In the NYT article, a historian, David Oshinsky, notes that when polio vaccination was first offered in 1954, more than a million people showed up with their kids for the trial. Dr. Oshinsky says of those parents: “They also had lived through virulent epidemics. That to me is probably the biggest issue of all. You’re dealing with parents [the current generation] who’ve never seen a smallpox epidemic, a polio epidemic.”. A doctor is also quoted in the NYT article saying: Dr. Offit wondered if people were more comfortable with sins of omission than of commission. Rather than inject a foreign substance into your body, he went on, “you’ll take your chances with a natural virus infection, which may or may not kill you.”

Lest you think that this behavior is East Coast schizoid, LA Times reports that only 5% of Californians intend to get inoculated, a number that remains constant across the socio-economic spectrum. And the reason the Californians don’t want to get vaccinated ? Not safety, but convenience (though among the most vulnerable, blacks and Latinos, safety was the number one concern). In the article, a 24-year old is quoted as saying: “A lot of people my age have the mentality they’re invincible and nothing can happen to them”.

Part of what is prompting these fears seems to be the ghost of 1976. Part of it is the drivel in the media from the likes of Bill Maher who oppose even pregnant women (the riskiest category for getting the disease) from getting a vaccine. In the article reported in NYT, I had to support the Republican doctor from Tennessee, Dr. Bill Frist over the unsubstantiated statements of Bill Maher. Maher seemed to forget that scoring points against unscientific Republicans may drive up the ratings, but not just opposing any Republican and unscientific liberals don’t come off sounding any less inane. The pundits in the US are remarkably ignorant and unscientific, be it on the issue of global warming, evolution or in this case, vaccines (I hope I’m not tempting fate by laughing at the skepticism of these people). The LA Times article reported that people who identified themselves as conservative Republicans were twice more likely to suspect vaccine safety compared to liberal Democrats. I guess, Bill Maher wanted to even things out a bit.

References:

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Another Life Over

On Monday night, another teenager walked on to the railway tracks and into the path of an oncoming train. He is the fourth teenager to commit suicide since spring of this year. A fifth was saved just in time earlier this year. All of them are students at the nearby prestigious Gunn High School. Gunn is located in Palo Alto, one of the most expensive neighborhoods in the Bay Area. At least one of the kids was doing very well academically and well liked at school. I can’t begin to fathom the anguish of the parents of the dead teenagers.

When I was reading about the suicides earlier this year, I was struck by a comment from one of the adolescent counselors. I searched for the article (published in the local San Jose Mercury News), but it is now hidden behind a paid archive. Luckily, I found a cached version on Google. He said:

“Kids are expected to do better than their parents,” he said. “But if you look at where we are, how do you top Silicon Valley? Especially in Palo Alto, where the majority of the community has extremely huge salaries. Most families have college degrees, if not Ph.D. or M.D., and houses with enormous square footage. So how is the next generation expected to do better than that?”

I don’t think anyone yet really knows why the teenagers committed suicide. But if this counselor is right, is this what we aspire for our children ? That they be better than us academically, materially and in their careers ? How do we continue to think, justify, and rationalize that these lead to more satisfying lives ?

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Shoreline


Shoreline Park in Mountain View has been a constant companion since we moved to the Bay Area. It, along with Rancho San Antonio County Park in Cupertino, has been the destination of choice whenever we wanted to hike but couldn’t think of a place in a hurry. After we returned from India, we went for a hike there again over the Labor Day weekend. The place was crowded around the boathouse, but we lost most of the crowds, once we started the hike towards Embarcadero.


The centerpiece of the park is the lake and the boathouse. They are also the most crowded. As you get away from there, the beauty of the backwaters of the Bay, the marshes and the innumerable birds that inhabit the place soothe away your daily stresses. It is a bird watcher’s delight and early in the morning or towards dusk, you can see lots of people with binoculars and cameras on tripods trying to capture a moment with the feathered ones.


The wetlands include two tidal marshes and two sloughs among other things. The vegetation around is beautiful wildflowers interspersed with hardy looking vegetation such as the one in the picture below.


The hike from the boathouse to the Embarcadero parking lot is quite flat and around 3 miles, one way. Vistas of East Bay and the surrounding mountains greet you everywhere you look. Pelicans, Herons, Cranes and all kinds of ducks can be commonly seen.


I’ll be sad to see the tomato season end. It has been a bountiful first year in our vegetable garden with tomatoes, eggplants, bellpeppers and chillies. The cherry tomatoes were particularly sweet.